Things to Do in Portsmouth in December
December weather, activities, events & insider tips
December Weather in Portsmouth
Is December Right for You?
Advantages
- Festive atmosphere without overwhelming crowds - Portsmouth does Christmas properly with the Victorian Festival of Christmas (early December) and Southsea Christmas Market, but you can actually move around and enjoy things unlike peak summer tourist season
- Gunwharf Quays shopping is genuinely excellent in December - 30% to 70% off designer brands, plus the Christmas lights and ice skating rink make it worth the trip even if you're not usually a shopping person
- Spinnaker Tower visibility is typically better in winter - clearer air means you can actually see the Isle of Wight properly on most days, and sunset views around 4pm (16:00) are spectacular without staying out late
- Historic Dockyard is far more manageable - you can explore HMS Victory and the Mary Rose Museum without battling school groups and summer crowds, plus the indoor exhibits are perfect for those rainy afternoons
Considerations
- Weather is genuinely unpredictable - that 48°F to 37°F (9°C to 3°C) range means you might get a crisp sunny morning followed by a damp, windswept afternoon, and the coastal wind makes it feel about 5°F (3°C) colder than the actual temperature
- Daylight is limited to roughly 8 hours - sunrise around 8am (08:00) and sunset by 4pm (16:00) means you need to plan carefully if you want to see outdoor attractions in natural light
- Some waterfront restaurants and attractions run reduced hours or close entirely - always check opening times before heading out, as several Southsea seafront spots that are open daily in summer might only operate weekends in December
Best Activities in December
Historic Naval Dockyard Tours
December is actually ideal for the Historic Dockyard because you can take your time with HMS Victory, HMS Warrior, and the Mary Rose Museum without the summer crush. The indoor Mary Rose exhibit is particularly good when it's drizzly outside - you're looking at Tudor artifacts in climate-controlled comfort while rain batters the windows. The 70% humidity means the preserved ships smell more authentic (that old wood and tar smell), which sounds odd but locals will tell you it adds to the experience. Plan for 4-5 hours minimum if you want to see everything properly.
Spinnaker Tower Sunset Visits
The 170m (558 ft) tower offers the best views you'll get in December because winter air is clearer than summer haze - on a decent day you can see 37 km (23 miles) across to the Isle of Wight and along the Solent. The key is timing your visit for that 3:30-4pm (15:30-16:00) window when the low winter sun creates dramatic lighting. The glass floor at 100m (328 ft) is less crowded in December, so you can actually get photos without people's feet in frame. That said, wind can close the outdoor viewing deck, so check conditions before you go.
Southsea Castle and Coastal Walks
The 3.2 km (2 mile) seafront walk from Southsea Castle to Old Portsmouth is actually better in winter if you dress properly - fewer people, dramatic waves when it's windy, and you can stop into waterfront pubs without them being packed. Southsea Castle itself has interesting Henry VIII history and the ramparts give you that windswept coastal feeling without requiring a long hike. The walk takes about 45 minutes at a normal pace, longer if you stop for photos of the Solent. Worth noting the wind can be properly fierce - locals call it 'bracing' which is British for 'bring a good jacket'.
Gunwharf Quays Shopping and Dining
December is peak time for the outlet shopping here - you're looking at 30% to 70% off brands like North Face, Ted Baker, and Joules, which is genuinely useful if you realize you underpacked for the cold. The Christmas lights and decorations are done properly (not tacky), and the ice skating rink runs through December if that's your thing. More importantly, the covered sections mean you can shop comfortably even when it's raining. The waterfront restaurants here are reliably good - not cheap (mains £14-22) but decent quality and several have harbor views.
Portsmouth Harbour Ferry and Gosport Exploration
The 4-minute ferry ride across Portsmouth Harbour to Gosport is one of those things locals do regularly but tourists often miss. It costs about £3 return and runs every 10 minutes, and you get excellent harbor views of the naval base. Gosport side has the Explosion Museum (naval firepower history) and the Submarine Museum with HMS Alliance - both are indoor attractions perfect for December weather. The whole expedition takes about 3-4 hours if you visit one museum, less if you just want the ferry ride and a walk around Gosport's waterfront.
Old Portsmouth and Historic Pub Walks
The narrow streets around the Cathedral and High Street in Old Portsmouth are atmospheric in December - Georgian buildings, cobblestones, and several proper old pubs that have been serving sailors since the 1700s. The area is compact (you can walk the whole thing in 20 minutes) but worth 2-3 hours if you stop for lunch and explore properly. The Still and West pub right on the point has harbor views and does decent fish and chips (£12-15). This is better in December than summer because you appreciate the cozy pub interiors more when it's cold outside.
December Events & Festivals
Victorian Festival of Christmas
Usually runs first weekend of December in Old Portsmouth - the historic quarter gets done up Victorian style with costumed characters, traditional food stalls, and period entertainment. It's genuinely well-executed rather than touristy, and locals actually attend which tells you something. Expect mulled wine, roasted chestnuts, and carol singers in period dress. The narrow streets get crowded (maybe 5,000-8,000 people over the weekend) but it's manageable.
Southsea Christmas Market
Runs most of December near the seafront with about 30-40 stalls selling crafts, food, and gifts. It's smaller than major city Christmas markets but that's actually a positive - you can browse everything in 45 minutes without feeling overwhelmed. Local artisans and food vendors rather than the same mass-produced stuff you see everywhere. Open Thursday through Sunday typically, with evening hours on weekends when the lights look best.